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四川牛背山云海 最让人沉迷的梦中仙境2

时间:2012-12-27 19:05:06 作者:转载 来源:转载 查看:20183
 

伫立在牛背山将近4000平方米的观景平台,你就像置身于“云中孤岛”,周围是天府之国一览无遗的名山大川。

南丝绸路上的“严道”:

古城烟雨和黑砂陶器的故事

在牛背山下,有一条叫做“严道”的古道,它其实是有着“蜀身毒道”之称的南丝绸之路在雅安境内的起点。牛背山所在的四川荥经县,古时候是边陲重镇,无论经济还是政治都扮演着引人注目的角色。从荥经县城去往牛背山,一路跋山涉水,无意间,你其实踩到的是重要的历史文化遗存。

早在战国后期,秦国灭掉蜀国之后,就从上郡(现在的陕北地区)迁来大批羌人,和当地人一起,修筑了一条从临邛(今邛崃县)到荥经的大道——也就是严道。公元前312年,秦惠王把严道封给弟弟樗里,并设置严道县,县治所在地就是荥经县城西南的古城村。

                                 牛背山的云海最好看

历史上,严道特殊的地理位置,曾经一度是中央政权控制西南夷的“桥头堡”和防御西南夷进攻的军事要塞。直到汉朝,严道的边防意义才逐渐削减,经济交流开始成为边城的主题。汉文帝的宠臣邓通,就曾经在这里开铜矿铸钱。“邓通钱”做工精细,从不在铸钱时掺杂铅、铁而取巧谋利,钱的成品“光泽亮、分量足、厚薄匀、质地纯”。在当时,汉朝无论王公大臣、豪商巨贾,或者贩夫走卒,全都喜爱邓通钱,一时间,严道的“邓氏钱、布天下”。

在著名的“南方丝绸之路”上,严道是重要的驿站。汉朝的蜀锦从成都(微博)出发,经过严道、西昌等地到达大理,再进入缅甸和东南亚,最远可抵达滇越“乘象国”,以及印度和孟加拉地区。通过严道,西南的各种物资同时也进入了蜀地和中原。

                                 高山上的杜鹃花和云海

进入三国时期,严道的经济仍然昌荣,荥经八景中的“古城烟雨”就是明证——由于严道是深入南方蛮族的要道,在民间传说中,诸葛亮南征时就曾经屯兵这里,为了御敌,诸葛亮还在周围布下了像“八阵图”一样的阵式,每当军营炊烟升起,远远望去,一片烟云茫茫,敌军根本分辨不清对面的状况……不过“古城烟雨”还有新解:从古至今,荥经都是黑砂陶器的盛产地,每当烧制砂器,就有烟雾升起,似雨非雨,似雾非雾,别有一番秀丽的景色。

关于黑砂陶器的来历,民间传说其实很有趣:很久以前,一位朝庭官员南巡经过严道,爬坡上坎后口干舌燥,官员命令手下人去找开水解渴,但当地百姓太穷,拿不出烧开水的家什,一户人家情急之下随手抠了一砣湿泥捏成一个锅,放在火上烧起了开水……朝庭官员喝到这开水后,连声说好喝、好喝。官员走后,当地人家就依葫芦画瓢,用泥巴做锅放到柴火上烧,逐渐烧成了现在的砂锅。于是,“荥经砂器”就这样世世代代流传下来,慢慢就有了2000多年的历史。

 

四川牛背山云海 最让人沉迷的梦中仙境3

 

 伫立在牛背山将近4000平方米的观景平台,你就像置身于“云中孤岛”,周围是天府之国一览无遗的名山大川。

九把锁:

黄金密道上的忠孝文化

一直以来,牛背山的地理环境都充满了艰难险阻。甚至山下的一条古道,名字就奇怪地叫做“九把锁”。

九把锁的成因和地理有关,是因为在其左岸有4道、右岸有5道垂直的山脊交汇,从而形成9个弯道。和我们常见的“之”字形盘山公路不同,行走在九把锁,就像沿着摊平的五指,来回曲折,需要改变9次方向才能走完。

                           美景

据考证,九把锁古道是春秋战国时期的楚人开凿,是一条从古代四川丽水(今雅砻江、金沙江流域)运送黄金的秘密要道。在当时,荥经又被叫做“营金”,可见黄金曾经给这座边陲小城所带来的影响和地位。春秋时期,楚国的贵族们争相到达这里,进行黄金的掠夺和交易,楚王还为此专门在这条道路上设了“移民总管”,一方面管理黄金的采运押送,另一方面为了移民到盛产黄金的古丽水作准备。后来,是否有楚人移居到西南已经不得而知。但是,九把锁古道却留了下来,直到明清时期,还依然在运送茶叶等物资。

除了地理独特和黄金密道之外,九把锁在历史上留名还与一段传统典故有关。从汉朝开始,忠孝文化中就有“忠臣咤驭、孝子回车”的说法,其实这个说法正是来源于牛背山下的九把锁。在古代的时候,这里又被称作“九折坂”。九折坂位置惊险,《华阳国志》中就有记载:“邛崃山,山上凝冰夏结,回曲九折……”;甚至,宋代诗人陆游也有诗句慨叹:“九折危途寸步艰,至今回首心尚寒”。

                              仙境

在陆游之前,有两位官员曾到过这里,并各自留下了让后人唏嘘不已的故事。西汉时期,汉宣帝封了一个叫王阳的人做益州(四川旧称)刺史。王刺史在赴任路上经过此地,眼看山势悬挂,九道险关横亘面前,不由得感慨身体发肤受之于父母,不能轻易冒险,于是留下“逢先人遗体,奈何数乘此险!”的话语,舍官不做,调转车头回家孝敬父母去了——这是孝子。

但是,后来又有一位王尊刺史路过“九折坂”去赴任,当他行至此地时,问到随行的小吏:“这就是王阳之前畏惧的地方吗?”小吏答:“是”。虽然这位王刺史也有路途险阻之慨,但思想之下却做出了不同的选择,打马驱车直接过了九折坂,当官为民操劳去了——这是忠臣。

这“一孝一忠”的故事,让九折坂名垂天下。人们来到这里,也会丈量一下自己的价值观,“二王”之间没有高低之分,只是取向不同,再抬眼牛背山间云雾缭绕,仿佛一切都静止地化作尘埃,历史的故事也飘然远去。







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In 2012,www.uggoutlet.name?according to the United States, the newspaper reported,Louis Vuitton Wallet?United States more and more Chinese people are no longer interested in waiting through the night,Burberry Black Friday?"Black Friday" sales,Cheap UGG Boots?but tended to "Cyber Monday" with your mouse?Uggs Boots?to complete holiday shopping.In contrast,Nike Air Max Damskie?the Web is a more attractive place not only can compare prices, you can also?Kate Spade Outlet?avoid commuting, one-time necessities,Toms Shoes?electrical appliances, clothing, cosmetics and so on all close at your?UGG Boots Sale?fingertips. But "Cyber Monday" comparable to the price of "Black Friday" competition, if you don't like fun people,www.tomshoesoutlet.us.com?or on the Internet?Nike Air Max?find their heart goods more cost-effective. Because?Cheap Red Bottom Shoes?a lot of shopping bargains may?Balenciaga Outlet?not be what you want, you can't run in one day more?Burberry Handbags?than the market. United States throughout?Balenciaga Handbags?the most popular online shopping day known as "Cyber Monday". According to industry projections,www.outletburberry.us.com?2013 United States scale?Coach Handbags?Cyber Monday online shopping will reach $ 1.8 billion,Moncler Outlet?equivalent to 11 billion yuan,Coach Factory?only domestic Alibaba "double 11" one-third of sales a day. United States Los Angeles market research firm?Kate Spade Black Friday?IBISWorld predicted that in 2013 to Cyber Monday, sales of us $ 1.8 billion,Uggs Boots?will grow by 13 per cent.1%. However,www.louisvuittonsoutlet.us.com?the 2013 forecast growth will be lower than last year's 21%. From 2010,Christian Louboutin Shoes?the United States Cyber Monday online shopping scale has been the high double-digit growth. In 2013, just past the "double 11",Kate Spade Outlet?the home alone by Alibaba Group's Taobao and the cat network,Moncler Jackets?achieving?North Face Jackets?sales of 35 billion yuan. Comparatively,Coach Black Friday?United States Cyber Monday online shopping scale, it is estimated that?North Face Black Friday?only a fraction of domestic,Ray Ban Outlet?China's fastest-growing online shopping,Burberry Outlet?is far more than the United States. Although Cyber Monday shopping?North Face Outlet?scale high growth,Louis Vuitton Outlet?but for Americans, the crazy Christmas season Shopping Festival,www.burberryshandbag.us.com?is still the day after?UGG Black Friday?Thanksgiving "Black Friday" sales achieved in the day, eight times more than doubled on Monday,www.uggbootssale.us.com?is expected to be a network. United States American?Tory Burch Shoes?Express said more people are?UGG Outlet?willing to Cyber Monday online shopping,UGG Boots?rather than visit the?Red Bottom Shoesstore on Black Friday.UGG Boots Outlet?Cyber Monday has surpassed?Moncler Black Friday?Black Friday as United States?Coach Factory Outlet?most popular shopping day. Although?Coach Online Store?more and more people offer Cyber Monday shopping,Oakley Outlet?but only Black Friday Cyber Monday?Longchamp Outlet?sales of 15%.
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